Care of Newborn Puppies and Kittens
During the first 4 weeks of life, puppies and kittens depend on their mother completely for warmth, nutrition, waste elimination, and hygiene. During this critical time, the owner must observe the puppies or kittens carefully to detect problems. Immediate veterinary care is critical for any sick puppy or kitten or they are likely to die. They are very fragile.Especially pomeranian puppys.
Here are some general guidelines:
Warmth : During the first few weeks of life, puppies and kittens may easily become chilled. A room temperature of 70 F is recommended. If the bitch or ill or absent, then the temperature in the infant's immediate environment should be increased to
80 to 85 F.
The normal body temperature (rectal) of the newborn is 96 to 97 F, and reaches 100 F by 4 weeks of age. Indirect heat such as that provided by a heat lamp or warm water bottles may be used if needed. But you have to be careful not to burn or overheat the neonates.
You don't notice the burn until after the deed is done...kind of like sunburn. Don't put the heat lamp too close. I used a heat pad left on all the time at setting number 1 , not too hot and not too cold.
Nutrition:
Puppies and Kittens should sleep contentedly after nursing and have full (not bloated) bellies. Excessive crying or restlessness, especially after nursing, means they're either not getting enough milk or they have "belly aches" or "colic" from "bad" milk or some other problem such as inflammation of the intestinal wall due to worms.
If needed, supplemental feeding of a puppy or kitten formula can be prescribed. There are lots of recipes for making milk replacer for kittens and puppies, but the commercial brands are much less likely to cause diarrhea. . Raising puppies and kittens (and most other animal infants) is an art. Each individual fragile life is a little different and a little too much or too little of heat, supplemental support and feeding, or interference with the momma could possibly end up causing death. And you never really know if it was your fault since there could be so many different underlying genetic, development, immune system, or parasitic problems going on at the same time.
If your kitten or pup won't nurse, your vet or breeder who will teach you how to bottle feed.
Stool and Urine : During the first 3 to 4 weeks, the mother stimulates elimination by licking her puppy's or kitten's genital - anal area. If the mother is ill or absent, you have to do this for the infants or they'll probably die. . Just use a wet = warm paper towel, rag, cotton ball etc. It's just a little baby poop ... it won't kill you. You need to do this after feeding or about every 3-5 hours until they start "going" on their own.
Eyes and Ears : Both the eyes and ears usually open sometime between 6 and 14 days Old. Both their sight and hearing slowly improve or develop over the next 4 plus weeks.
In other words, just because their eyes are open at 7 days old doesn't mean they can see all that great or that their little brains can process what they do see. It takes a little time in the predator species. (Prey animals are likely to be able to see (and run) shortly after birth)
Worms: Internal parasites are very common in kittens and puppies. Some vets like to do fecal checks as early as 2 weeks of age.
Vaccines: Each vet has a slightly different vaccine schedule, but in general, for both kittens and puppies we should start the first vaccines soon after weaning or at 6-8 weeks of age ... which ever comes first. I vaccinate at 12 weeks because pom pups are so small. Vaccines have been greatly improved and in the near future these recommendations may be modified, but please don't neglect these puppy and kitten vaccines ... vets have to watch several young pets die each month in near helplessness because high quality vaccines weren't given for one reason or another. On the other hand, we rarely see significant problems caused by the vaccinations which is what so many lay pet articles are implying.
Weaning: Introduction of a liquid or gruel diet may be done at 3 to 4 weeks of age. Puppy or kitten milk replacer is a good starter, followed by gruel made of puppy or kitten food soaked in warm water. I often add a little farleys rusk to this mixture, but it's probably not needed. Over the next couple of weeks, simply use less and less liquid until they are eating dry food. Weaning should be completed between 5 and 8 weeks of age.
New Homes: Both puppies and kittens are physically and psychologically ready (in most cases) to bond to new humans and leave "home" anytime after weaning. The ideal age seems to be between 6 ad 9 weeks old.I have never rehomed a puppy so therefore I cannot comment by experience on this but I would think that is far too young to place a pomeranian in a new home.
Don't forget those vaccines A word from my own experience when rearing puppies, despite them being so cute dont show them off to other doggys people. keep their enviroment as clean and sterile as possible, avoid contact with all other dogs, avoid dog shows ect, these little babies are so fragile and can catch an infection so easy, dont let others handle the pups, keep bedding, ect immaculate, if hand rearing make sure all materials are sterilized. I have hand reared, and cleanliness is a must.If you must show off your litter do so with photographs, it really just isnt worth the risk of infection.
Andrea x .
some web sites that may help:
http://www.animaldefenseleague.org/newborn.htm
http://www.caninechronicle.com/features/coffman/coffman_504.html
http://www.bobmckee.com/Client%20Info/Nutrition/care%20of%20newborns.html
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